The most eagerly awaited event of this Milan fashion week is undoubtedly the Gucci show for the advent of new creative director Sabato de Sarno.
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The news of the fashion house's break-up with Alessandro Michele a few months ago had left everyone baffled, but probably, like the best love stories or the most captivating Netflix series, the brand-creative director relationship must also have a beginning and an end.
Seven full years have come to an end, because the concept of fullness is what best describes Gucci with the former creative mind at the helm. A “tavern pen” would also ironise on this meaning: “so we were all full?”.
Sabato de Sarno's name rang out softly at first, then began to rumble (even in the ears of those wearing fakes) like thunder in the middle of the night.
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But who is this Sabato de Sarno? At the Corriere just today, the new director declared that he does not want to put himself on a pedestal in any way, and that he prefers an evening with his friends to a dinner with Roberts (who knows if Julia heard about this statement on entering the Via Mecenate location).
Again at the Corriere's microphone he portrays himself as a boy next door and this time the statement has all the air of being consistent with reality. But let's wait a little longer to confirm.
The trend in vogue lately reads: “be radical chic, be good to those less fortunate than you (it doesn't matter if you really are), dress as if you don't care what you have on (but absent-mindedly point out your signature piece), show on social media how busy you are, how much you read, how much you write, how much you know”. There is nothing more vulgar than ostentatious intellectuality, but then again, who cares about vulgarity anymore?
Sabato de Sarno seems to want to break out of these constructs by naturally recounting his being and his past, just as one would explain it to a friend sitting at a table in a Chinese bar in Paolo Sarpi: sipping a low-quality spritz and nibbling on some peanuts.
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Front row? His mother, the only person in the front row whose judgement he seems to care about. The creative direction of the “Gucci Ancora” campaign represents the desire to continue to tell a story as glorious as Gucci's, without the need to design self-referential concepts that only narrate the heroic deeds of the designer.
The fashion show in a word? Red.
The catwalk? Not intended to distract from a lack of talent, but a stage.
The looks are clean, sartorial, precise, neat. In three words? As they should be.
The new Gucci is punctual and meticulous: as it should be.
The Mark Ronson soundtrack? Let's hope we hear it again.
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Sabato de Sarno? As any banal influencer would write on his IG stories filming the end of a fashion show and tagging the designer: “BRAVO”. But really bravo.
Illustration by Gloria Dozio - Acrimònia Studios
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