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What to see in Prague (again)

The Czech capital, although a victim of overtourism, always manages to amaze the most shrewd and sensitive travelers, who, among hills, castles, eyes and flying skulls can enjoy an extraordinary city

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Despite the obvious and undeniable excess of tourists who choose it as a summer destination, Prague still manages to amaze the smartest travelers, who are eager to discover and rediscover it even after several stays along the banks of the Vltava River. Unlike Paris, and the chosen term of comparison already suggests that we are dealing with a remarkable city, Prague over the years has grown for the better, with very organized transportation, admirable overall cleanliness, and seemingly very thorough public order and management.

All this makes it a place where outings, trips and groups converge in large numbers, but it still has a few tricks up its sleeve. And since it is a magical place, there are no less than five aces.

 
 
 
 
 
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Un post condiviso da Prague 🇨🇿 Travel | Hotels | Food | Tips (@praguetravelers)

1. Escape from the plains

The small hills bordering the river provide a valuable and easy-to-earn panorama: by taking little road and a few climbs we reach unexpected and very pleasant places. Like Petrin, there where the scale replica of the Eiffel Tower (let's say) towers, gardens and rose gardens await us, as well as the astronomical observatory and the mirror maze (interesting from the outside but not worth the cost of the ticket). This area, also quite busy, is like suspended, outside the city, so many trees, glimpses of old walls and silence. No less intriguing is Letna, a hilly area dominated by the museums of agriculture and technology, which, however, give way to an extensive green area with beer gardens and free tables from which there is an important view of the north side of the old town.

2. The Other Castle

Prague Castle can hardly be called an alternative destination, by any stretch of the imagination. But the capital has at least one other castle to boast of, slightly south of the beaten track. Vyšehrad is its name, and the high ground on which it stands is an absolute gem: trees, viewpoints, benches, beer gardens on ancient ramparts, a relaxed, bucolic atmosphere. To sprinkle some cultural sprinkle on top of it all are the fortification's basement, the basilica, and the small cemetery where, among others, the artist Alfons Mucha rests (be careful, however, as the sign at the entrance indicates, in the sacred area you should not hammer graves, do drugs, or drink alcohol!).

3. The docks have eyes

One of the novelties that only the most curious eye can catch are the large round “eyes” that have opened on the riverbank in the area of the Dancing House. Just past the Jiráskův Most, descending to the level of the Vltava, you will find huge round windows. Some say they are the “largest glass doors in the world,” but these are architect's details. In concrete terms, these are the restoration of old ice chambers made in the embankment along the river. 20 restored spaces that have become exhibition areas or rooms, quite unique: huge eyes for a different view of the city.

4. The ubiquitous David

David stands for David Cerny, a controversial Czech artist who has definitely branded the Capital with his works, now present in large numbers. Compared to the Musoleum that collects some of his works there is to add that - an important detail - they did not then make the cafeteria on the roof and the one on the ground pinao is not this great. But on the other hand there is a huge purple skull spinning, hanging in the air, in front of the building's facade. Wandering around the center of Cernyane works you will certainly encounter some but to admire the most recent one you have to go in front of the Máj shopping center and look up to see the gigantic butterfly made by modifying a Spitfire airplane, colored a vivid purple and equipped with moving insect wings.

5. Wenceslas, beyond the square

Perhaps Prague's largest and most famous public space, Wenceslas Square, is not exactly the most eye-catching in its being a jumble of a thousand restaurants, fast food outlets, large chain stores and various franchises. But, when the major works now underway are finished, this space will once again become a tourist crossroads that cannot be ignored. Better, however, to approach it the right way, looking up and to the side. Up, to discover the terrace of a bookstore that has its own in-house bar, very cozy and well hidden: not knowing Czech you will not find much to read but a break on that little terrace is worth the stop. It is up to you to find it. To the side, to dodge the crazy crowd and take refuge in the garden of the Church of the Virgin of the Snow: in good weather, a break in the shade and shelter can be as valuable as a good beer. Czech, of course.

 

Illustration by Gloria Dozio - Acrimònia Studios