“That one there has just the body of a model”: a phrase that at least once in our life we have pronounced or heard and almost always, by
“that one”, we meant a very tall girl, very thin and with perfect features.
This common, well-rooted thought is based on years of beauty standards imposed by catwalks, magazines, advertising and social campaigns. The attempts of the fashion system to be more inclusive, opting for models with unconventional beauty, which goes beyond size and height, skin color and perfect profile, is it still news or has it become normal?
Is it right to celebrate what should be ordinary? It is certainly important to underline that curvy models are part of a historical and cultural change, but equally certainly, it is right to be recognized regardless of their authentic beauty and not just as a necessary means for brands to demonstrate that they have welcomed diversity and embraced body positivity. They are not just “women with a few extra pounds” or with “generous curves” but they are above all professionals.
“SELF LOVE” is the motto tattooed on the hands of the “curvy” model Jill Kortleve, the undisputed star of the last Fashion Week.
Her exotic beauty, her thick brows, her clean cut, her curves and her determined stride had already been noticed by brands such as Nike, Alexander McQueen, Jacquemus, Mugler, Valentino and H&M. He recently showed in Milan for fashion houses of the caliber of Fendi and Etro.
Visualizza questo post su InstagramOnly love @fendi @pg_dmcasting @samuel_ellis ❣️grazie for welcoming me on the runway again ❣️
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Running for Versace has been defined by herself as “a historic moment” that she hopes will open more and more doors for the new generations, born dreaming of posing for a magazine or a catwalk but who, not feeling represented, have ended up feeling inadequate and not suitable for the context.
She also wanted to congratulate two other “curvy colleagues” : @alvaclaire and @preciousleexoxo, who are also wonderful in their flamboyant outfits.
Jill also left his mark in Paris, parading for Coperni and... for Chanel!
In March she walked the runway for the French fashion house, certainly not going unnoticed, the last “curvy” model to participate in a show of the Maison, in fact, was Crystal Renn at the presentation of the Cruise11 collection. Jill defined the experience as follows:
“I'm so grateful for this moment - a change was needed on the runway and I'm proud to be part of it. I really hope that in the future I will see and work with many more models who did not fit the briefing”
Jill's presence is normal compared to a few years ago, a positive sign and an indication that perhaps something is moving. In fact, parading with “canonical” models, one no longer perceives the clear distinction between sizes, well known instead to the model Ashley Graham, activist and first model of size 50 to reach the status of supermodel.
Her 2015 Ted Talk dealt with just this issue. The title is significant: “Plus size ?! More than anything else my size”. She claims that in the past, to make her defining herself as a model credible, she had to add the word “curvy”, which is why she expresses the need to universally embrace diversity without paradigms.
In 2016 Teen Vogue released the video “Everything Plus - Size Models Are Tired of Hearing” - starring models Barbie Ferreira, Jordyn Woods, Hunter McGrady, Olivia Wilson and Riley Ticotin. The girls exchange the most frequent (and unwelcome) statements they have collected in their careers such as: "You have a nice body for a big size", "You are lucky to be paid to eat", "You are brave to do what do".
In 2019 Tess McMillan shows her preparation for the Simone Rocha show for Vogue and while some may try to classify her in the category of “curvy models” , Tess is totally disinterested in being caged, collecting works that replace labels for her curriculum. It's not a “plus size” or a “red” : it's Tess McMillan. Everything else is secondary.
Is the general approach changing? Yes, but inclusiveness will only really be achieved when it is no longer newsworthy. The goal is to talk about it today to encourage change and not have to talk about it tomorrow! Are we on the right track?