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Have we finally normalized the concept of inclusivity?

Positive messages come from the catwalks of the last Fashion Week

By Alessia Amorosini

That one there has just the body of a model: a phrase that at least once in our life we have pronounced or heard and almost always, by
that one, we meant a very tall girl, very thin and with perfect features.

This common, well-rooted thought is based on years of beauty standards imposed by catwalks, magazines, advertising and social campaigns. The attempts of the fashion system to be more inclusive, opting for models with unconventional beauty, which goes beyond size and height, skin color and perfect profile, is it still news or has it become normal?

Is it right to celebrate what should be ordinary? It is certainly important to underline that curvy models are part of a historical and cultural change, but equally certainly, it is right to be recognized regardless of their authentic beauty and not just as a necessary means for brands to demonstrate that they have welcomed diversity and embraced body positivity. They are not just women with a few extra poundsor with generous curves but they are above all professionals.

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My hands captured by @b_mstk in Miami 🇺🇸🇺🇸

Un post condiviso da Jill Kortleve (@jilla.tequila) in data:

SELF LOVE is the motto tattooed on the hands of the curvy model Jill Kortleve, the undisputed star of the last Fashion Week.

Her exotic beauty, her thick brows, her clean cut, her curves and her determined stride had already been noticed by brands such as Nike, Alexander McQueen, Jacquemus, Mugler, Valentino and H&M. He recently showed in Milan for fashion houses of the caliber of Fendi and Etro.

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Only love @fendi @pg_dmcasting @samuel_ellis ❣️grazie for welcoming me on the runway again ❣️

Un post condiviso da Jill Kortleve (@jilla.tequila) in data:

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Walked my first show for @etro yesterday and what a colourful dream 💛💚💖 thank you to the lovely team for having me. ✨

Un post condiviso da Jill Kortleve (@jilla.tequila) in data: Sfilare per Versace è stato definito da lei stessa “un momento storico” che si augura possa aprire sempre più porte per le nuove generazioni, nate sognando di vedersi su un magazine o una passerella ma che, non sentendosi spesso rappresentate, hanno finito per sentirsi inadeguate e non adatte al contesto. Ha voluto inoltre congratularsi con altre due colleghe “curvy": @alvaclaire e @preciousleexoxo, anche loro meravigliose nei loro outfit sgargianti.

Running for Versace has been defined by herself as a historic moment that she hopes will open more and more doors for the new generations, born dreaming of posing for a magazine or a catwalk but who, not feeling represented, have ended up feeling inadequate and not suitable for the context.

She also wanted to congratulate two other curvy colleagues : @alvaclaire and @preciousleexoxo, who are also wonderful in their flamboyant outfits.

Jill also left his mark in Paris, parading for Coperni and... for Chanel!

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Ok. Bonjour @chanelofficial 💝💝💝

Un post condiviso da Jill Kortleve (@jilla.tequila) in data:

In March she walked the runway for the French fashion house, certainly not going unnoticed, the last curvy model to participate in a show of the Maison, in fact, was Crystal Renn at the presentation of the Cruise11 collection. Jill defined the experience as follows:

“I'm so grateful for this moment - a change was needed on the runway and I'm proud to be part of it. I really hope that in the future I will see and work with many more models who did not fit the briefing

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I can’t believe this just happened but... to end this fashion month, I walked my first fashion show for @chanelofficial. I m so thankful for this moment to happen and for everybody who made this happen; There’s a much needed change happening on the runway and I’m proud and feel grateful to be a part of it. I truly hope that in the future I get to see and work with many more models who used to not fit the briefing 💖 This whole month has been a dream and I never expected that it was even possible for me to walk on the runway, let alone be included in the amazing shows this season. Thank you. My heart is filled with gratitude and love.

Un post condiviso da Jill Kortleve (@jilla.tequila) in data:

Jill's presence is normal compared to a few years ago, a positive sign and an indication that perhaps something is moving. In fact, parading with canonical models, one no longer perceives the clear distinction between sizes, well known instead to the model Ashley Graham, activist and first model of size 50 to reach the status of supermodel.

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You asked and now it’s here! Gave you a sneak peek of this suit last year and so excited for you all to be able to wear it! 👙 Link in bio @swimsuitsforall

Un post condiviso da A S H L E Y G R A H A M (@ashleygraham) in data:

Her 2015 Ted Talk dealt with just this issue. The title is significant: “Plus size ?! More than anything else my size. She claims that in the past, to make her defining herself as a model credible, she had to add the word “curvy”, which is why she expresses the need to universally embrace diversity without paradigms.

In 2016 Teen Vogue released the video “Everything Plus - Size Models Are Tired of Hearing” - starring models Barbie Ferreira, Jordyn Woods, Hunter McGrady, Olivia Wilson and Riley Ticotin. The girls exchange the most frequent (and unwelcome) statements they have collected in their careers such as: "You have a nice body for a big size", "You are lucky to be paid to eat", "You are brave to do what do".

In 2019 Tess McMillan shows her preparation for the Simone Rocha show for Vogue and while some may try to classify her in the category of curvy models” , Tess is totally disinterested in being caged, collecting works that replace labels for her curriculum. It's not a plus size”  or a red” : it's Tess McMillan. Everything else is secondary.

Is the general approach changing? Yes, but inclusiveness will only really be achieved when it is no longer newsworthy. The goal is to talk about it today to encourage change and not have to talk about it tomorrow! Are we on the right track?